As the fashion industry seeks to become more sustainable, many are working to develop new textiles or use preferred forms of already common textiles. The textile landscape is constantly changing in new and exciting ways.

Preferred textiles

Textile Exchange defines “a preferred fiber or material as one which results in improved environmental and/or social sustainability outcomes and impacts in comparison to conventional production” (n.d.).

In June, Textile Exchange published their report, Material Change Insights 2021, and highlighted six key insights:

  • Material Change Index (MCI) preferred materials rose from 44% in 2020 to 50% in 2021. Now preferred cotton represents 65% of overall cotton used by participating brands, and recycled polyester increased to 32% of polyester use. 
  • There has been growth in recycled materials dominated by non-textile inputs. Recycled inputs now represent 29% of synthetic fibers and 12% of materials overall.
  • Greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions decreased by 5% in 2021 thanks in part to increased recycling and greater use of preferred materials, such as recycled polyester.
  • Though there is far to go, the MCI now represents over five million hectares of cropland, grazing, and forestry under improved practices, like sustainability programs and certifications.
  • There is improvement in the transparency of sourcing regions. Currently country-of-origin knowledge hovers around 48% of materials sourced.
  • There are early signs of brands decoupling value creation from new resource extraction. More companies are reporting data on re-commerce and repair, upcycling, re-commerce, and rentals.

Cotton

A recent Cotton Incorporated (2022) survey found that 90% of respondents wish cotton were in more products, and 96% say cotton feels safe to them. They describe products made with cotton as being comfortable (83%), functional (76%), high quality (72%), and durable (71%). A total of 74% state that cotton and cotton blends are their favorite fiber to wear.

There has been definite progress in moving toward preferred textiles. While use of recycled polyester is increasing, preferred cotton is faring far better, with 65.04% of the market–about twice the use of conventional cotton (Textile Exchange, 2022). This will only increase, as shown by the popularity of the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, in which 127 companies have committed to sourcing 100% of their cotton from the most sustainable programs by 2025 (Textile Exchange, 2021).

Next-gen materials

Next-gen materials, such as bio-based materials, are rising in popularity as well. The Material Innovation Institute reports that 38 out of 40 fashion brands are actively seeking next-gen materials. There are currently 74 next-gen material companies, 42 of which were founded in 2014 or later. Two-thirds of those focus on leather (Preuss, 2021). The materials are made from the following by various companies:

  • 41 plant-derived
  • 14 microbe-derived
  • 7 mycelium
  • 6 recycled material
  • 4 blends
  • 3 cultured animal cells

There is no doubt that further developments in new materials and the increased use of preferred fibers will help the fashion industry move toward greater sustainability now and in the future.

References

Cotton Incorporated. (2022). All about cotton. Lifestyle Monitor. https://lifestylemonitor.cottoninc.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/All_About_Cotton_for_download.pdf 

Preuss, S. (2021, November 9). New report highlights opportunities for next-gen sustainable materials. Fashion United. https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/new-report-highlights-opportunities-for-next-gen-sustainable-materials/2021110959129 

Textile Exchange. (2021). 2025 sustainable cotton challenge third annual report 2021. https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/2025_Sustainable-Cotton-Challenge-Report_2021.pdf 

Textile Exchange. (2022, June). Material change insights 2021. https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Textile-Exchange_Material-Change-Insights_Report_2021.pdf 

Textile Exchange. (n.d.). FAQ: What is the definition of a preferred fiber or material? https://textileexchange.org/faq/what-is-the-definition-of-a-preferred-fiber-or-material/