Though global fiber production declined in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the market share for preferred fiber and materials continues to increase. For instance, the global fiber production nearly doubled from 58 million tons in 2000 to 109 million tons in 2020. It is expected to increase another 34% to 146 million tons in 2030 as consumers increasingly seek bio-based materials (Textile Exchange, 2021). In addition, searches for “vegan leather” increased by 69% in 2020, according to Lyst (Chua, 2021, July 23). Textile Exchange’s Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2021 stated, “Plant fibers had a market share of around 30 percent of the global fiber market in 2020,” and “An increasingly important fiber category is manmade cellulosic fibers (MMCFs), with a global production volume of around 6.5 million tonnes and a market share of around 6 percent in 2020.”
Bio-based textiles certainly offer renewable alternatives to petroleum-based products. They reduce dependence on fossil fuels, which decrease greenhouse gas emissions during production. Also, many bio-based materials provide natural antimicrobial properties, which can enhance the durability of textiles. They usually have a lower carbon footprint, are safe for consumers, and are degradable by the end of the product lifecycle.
Bio-based textile innovations
Women’s Wear Daily highlighted the popularity of next-gen materials with an A-Z guide showcasing new materials that prioritize sustainability (Roshitsh, 2021). For example, some of these bio-based textile innovations include:
- Flocus, made from a yarn blend of fibers from the kapok tree, is 100% biodegradable and recyclable. It is used for fabrics and insulation materials because it has no additives and is lightweight, hypoallergenic, and soft to the touch. It can also manage moisture, regulate temperature, and repel insects.
- Flwrdwn, created by Pangaia, is a plant-based down alternative made with natural wild flowers and biopolymer.
- Malai is a leather alternative made from bio-based material grown on top of coconut water through fermentation. This creates a jelly that is harvested and strengthened with natural fibers, gums, and resins to add durability and flexibility. The material is biodegradable and compostable.
- Mirum, made by Natural Fiber Welding, is a leather alternative that is 100% natural and biodegradable. The material is made from a slurry of raw materials like cork, coconut, vegetable oil, and natural rubber and doesn’t require water during manufacturing or dyeing.
- Mylo, a leather alternative developed by Bolt Threads, is made completely of mushroom root. It takes only weeks to grow the material to shape and size.
- Luxe fabric Orange Fiber is made out of over 700,000 tons of byproducts from citrus juice that usually end up as waste.
- SeaCell is made from blending wood pulp blended with seaweed powder. It is biodegradable and has absorbent and antibacterial properties, which make it optimal for activewear.
- Spinnova is a 100% natural, biodegradable, and recyclable cotton alternative. It is made from wood and waste without using harmful chemicals. Along with being free of microplastics and harmful chemicals, it uses 99% less water than cotton.
Future opportunities
In conclusion, a report from the Material Innovation Initiative and The Mills Fabrica states that the marketplace is currently unable to meet consumers’ demand for animal-free, sustainable, high-performance alternatives to animal-based materials. Development of leather alternatives makes up about two-thirds of the next-gen materials industry, which leaves wool, down, fur, and exotic skins with few “innovation efforts” (Chua, 2021, December).
Boston technology research firm Lux Research estimates that annual sales of “low-complexity” leather alternatives (including materials made from fruits and vegetables as well as recycled-material leathers) may well reach $1 billion by 2025, as long as technological advances and consumer interest continue at their current rate (Chua, 2021, July 23). However, the sector is complex, and there is currently little regulatory oversight, which will likely change as innovation continues.
References
Chua, J. M. (2021, July 23). The booming business of biomaterials. Sourcing Journal. https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/raw-materials/biomaterials-mylo-pinatex-mirum-bolt-threads-ananas-anam-290259/
Chua, J. M. (2021, December 3). Why material innovators should look past plant-based leather. Sourcing Journal. https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/raw-materials/materials-innovation-institute-mills-fabrica-biomaterials-next-gen-materials-agricultural-waste-316498/
Roshitsh, K. (2021, November 9). An A-Z guide to the next-gen materials taking a step forward for sustainability. Women’s Wear Daily. https://wwd.com/sustainability/materials/next-gen-fabrics-textiles-fibers-in-fashion-directory-a-z-1234928036/
Textile Exchange. (2021). Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2021. https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Textile-Exchange_Preferred-Fiber-and-Materials-Market-Report_2021.pdf
